If I chase out a socket back box and leave a few edges I use filler, making sure to add a bit (but not too much water) around the gap, with relevent circuit OFF. cjard, 1 Jul 2015 #1. I was planning on using 25mm back boxes for sockets and dimmers, but the plasterboard seems to only go up to 12.5mm, or I … Not sure if there is any rule about whether a socket face plate should be in contact with/form a lid of the socket back box? You can then re-fit the front cover. IMO It's one thing to have a bit of plaster exposed between the box and the socket but from the looks of your picture it's much worse than that. Sponsored Links; riveralt. The only problem with using the galvanised backboxes with plasterboard is that the thickness of the plasterboard interferes with the hole that the cable goes through, unless you can use a hole in the back. I've removed all the plaster on the ground floor during the house renovation, and was thinking of using plasterboard as it's quicker and wet plaster is scarce these days. You could use a plasterboard box, which grips the back of the lath & plaster - maybe OK for something like a data socket that won't be unplugged very often, but I certainly wouldn't use it for a power socket - the force of the socket being pushed and pulled as it is used would eventually cause the plaster to break up I reckon. The lugs on these back boxes are metal and normally fixed. Now, again, mixed reviews on plastic back boxes. As you tighten the screws on the face plate, it fits the face plate tight against the wall. To this end I have used galvanised with plasterboard but I have set the box back about 10mm and used extra long screws for the sockets. The PLASTERGUARD can be fitted and removed easily with the wires connected. I understand the I can still use metal boxes, but this will require an offset using some wood or the sorts to bring the box flush, but this seem very time consuming for every single external wall socket (roughly 20 sockets). Joined: 4 Jan 2004 Messages: 4,020 Does this mean I should use a 35mm socket box, to finish flush-ish with the plaster, or is a 25mm socket box acceptable? Metal Back Boxes. The two yellow tabs slide horizontally. I have used one coat plaster, and, if I have any, a mixture of mortar and multi finish fethered into the original plasterwork either side. ... Back. Private jobs I tend to find the plasterer will be half decent at not filling the box, on sites and larger contracts the plasterers don't seem to give a ****. You have to take the face plate off. Protects socket boxes from plaster Holds sockets off the wall while plastering or tiling Supplied in packs of 10 Also available in double gang size Specifications for this item. The PLASTERGUARD is fitted and removed by just sliding it over the accessory. The cut-out for these metal back boxes are normally chiselled out of the wall material. You could use one of the box cover type things, although that's expensive, although it doesn;t take long to knock any excess plaster out and run the tap through the lugs. Now i have read mixed things regarding which back boxes to use for this. The metal back boxes are used in solid walls, such as stone, brick and breeze block walls. The back of your socket looks like it will be completely exposed to the void behind the plasterboard. Slide them back into the box, insert the box into the hole until the front of the box is flush with the plasterboard and then push to two yellow tabs sideways until they click/lock into place, securing the box to the plasterboard. The PLASTERGUARD fits perfectly in between any electrical accessory and its back box giving a protective seal of 1 inch. Safetyshield SSR270 Double Gang Reusable Sockitz Pack of 10 4.8 out of 5 stars 15.
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